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Lot 7 - Horst P. Horst, Mainbocher Corset, Paris, 1939

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Horst P. Horst (1906 - 1999)
Mainbocher Corset, Paris, 1939
Gelatin silver print, printed later
Signed, titled and dated in pencil on verso
30 x 22.5 cm (11 7/8 x 8 7/8 in)
Private Collection, U.S.A.

Condition Report:



This print is in very good condition.



Main Rousseau Bocher was born in Chicago in 1890, ‘Mainbocher’ as he later became known, was extremely gifted and creative – he was a trained lithographer, a sketch artist, an illustrator for Harpers Bazaar, Paris and later in New York was responsible for the design of stage costume and uniforms (on a shoestring) of the American WAVES (U.S. Navy). From the beginning, he favoured the simple, elegant and conservative with the luxury of cut, materials and workmanship which came to be recognised by the elite (it was no surprise that the Duchess of Windsor chose him to design her trousseau for her marriage in 1937, as his simple line and fall of his fabrics flattered her slim and severe good looks). He made a calculated point of knowing his clients personally and based his designs almost around their lifestyles, managing to successfully package himself as an exclusive designer to the wealthy and the titled. Before Mainbocher left Paris for New York just before the war, his final collections, groundbreaking in their body-conscious focus, attracted a lot of attention. His creation of the Mainbocher Corset cinched the waist dramatically and radically altered the previous silhouette of the 1930's. This departure, marking a new phase in fashion, was immortalised in 1939 by Horst’s sensual homage shown here. On his arrival in New York, Mainbocher was greeted enthusiastically by society women who wanted to be seen to patronise a fellow American, but who also wanted to be associated with a man whom by now had a legendary reputation for making women not only feel good but also look exquisitely well-bred.






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Starting Price :
5000

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